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I have decided to experiment with growing clumpers here and need some suggestions. So far I have just recently acquired Fargesia rufa and am getting some Fargesia robusta soon. I also have had Yushania anceps for about a year now and it has done great so far (I know that it is variously described as a clumper, an open clumper, a clumper with running tendancies, and as a runner, but it is nevertheless a mountain bamboo that grows in clumps) in a location with only about 2-3 hours of direct sun.

These 3 species are the only temperate clumpers I have noticed being suggested as possibilites for hot/humid climates. Does anyone have other species suggestions? The summers here are hot and humid with many days in the 90 degrees f range and humidity 80%+. Our winters are usually borderline zone 7/8, with single digits being a rarity, at most 2 or 3 nights a year for short duration. Most years, though, such as this past winter, our low is somewhere in the teens.

Also, cheap plant sales or donations for purposes of heat hardiness trials would be most welcome

I feel like the poster child for this bamboo but Thamnocalamus tessellatus would be my next suggestion, you stay above 5º F like me and you have similar summer temps and humidity. Its also capable of taking full sun in our environment. Only detractor I can think of is the general appearance can become messy and unkempt at times. Which can be addressed by proper feeding and trimming like any other plant.

Current photo of T. tessellatus 2-25-11
http://morinfen.smugmug.com/Bamboo/Afri ... 6yf-X3.jpg

M

Moriphen - that's a single plant? If so, not a very tight clumper is it?

Alan_L wrote:Moriphen - that's a single plant? If so, not a very tight clumper is it?

Thats 2 separate T. tessellatus plants that have started to grow together, initially I had them 4 feet apart but they turned out to be quite vigorous and are now about 2 feet apart at the base. I never really though of it as a open clumper; but I decided to measured the max distance between the culms today. Maximum distance was 6 inches the majority where at most 2-3 inches apart. I always believed that a open clumper was loosely defined has having long rhizome necks that resulted in the culms being at least 12 inches apart. Please correct me if I am wrong.

M

*edit* fixed spelling

moriphen wrote:I feel like the poster child for this bamboo but Thamnocalamus tessellatus would be my next suggestion, you stay above 5º F like me and you have similar summer temps and humidity. Its also capable of taking full sun in our environment. Only detractor I can think of is the general appearance can become messy and unkempt at times. Which can be addressed by proper feeding and trimming like any other plant.

Current photo of T. tessellatus 2-25-11
http://morinfen.smugmug.com/Bamboo/Afri ... 6yf-X3.jpg

M

Thanks, moriphen--wow, I REALLY like that plant's form better than the others!

moriphen wrote:I always believed that a open clumper was loosely defined has having long rhizome necks that resulted in the culms being at least 12 inches apart. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Since 'Rufa' is the only clumper I have experience with so far, and its culms are close-packed, even 2-3" spacing seems pretty open to me.

I'm not debating the terminology, it's just surprising to me.

.

Shamefully neither the Op, Alan or Myself can grow Otatea acuminata sp. aztecorum, definitely too tropical. Though please let us all know how things turn out, we do enjoy the tropical pics.

M

Sorry to butt in here, read all the time but have never posted.., I'm pretty sure that the varieties you are suggesting for South Carolina are going to have some heat issues.

I live Texas, and granted the heat is longer and more intense than S. Carolina, but the montane bamboo literally melt in Austin- fargesia, too hot, Chusquea, too hot. As mentioned, Thamnocalamus tessellatus is from S. Africa, but the mountains- cooler nights. It's the night time temps that do the damage.

I have about 20 varieties growing that are perfect for the south (central Texas low winter temps dependent), but have melted many experiments with "southern summer" temps. Fargesia Robusta, Chusquea Gigantea, and Thamnocalamus tessellatus. The only Chusquea I can grow is coronalis- and our winters are to much for that one at times.

So am I wrong to think that the tessellatus would suffer during the summer in South Carolina?

Does anybody out there have a fargesia suggestion that might not melt- or should I give up...?

Thanks,

Samajax wrote:Sorry to butt in here, read all the time but have never posted.., I'm pretty sure that the varieties you are suggesting for South Carolina are going to have some heat issues.

I live Texas, and granted the heat is longer and more intense than S. Carolina, but the montane bamboo literally melt in Austin- fargesia, too hot, Chusquea, too hot. As mentioned, Thamnocalamus tessellatus is from S. Africa, but the mountains- cooler nights. It's the night time temps that do the damage.

I have about 20 varieties growing that are perfect for the south (central Texas low winter temps dependent), but have melted many experiments with "southern summer" temps. Fargesia Robusta, Chusquea Gigantea, and Thamnocalamus tessellatus. The only Chusquea I can grow is coronalis- and our winters are to much for that one at times.

So am I wrong to think that the tessellatus would suffer during the summer in South Carolina?

Does anybody out there have a fargesia suggestion that might not melt- or should I give up...?

Thanks,

Have you specifically tried F. robusta or F. rufa? I know for a fact that Mike in Marietta, SC has both of those and Yushania anceps (also a montane species) in his garden and his climate is almost identical to mine. I seem to remember that he also has at least anceps also in another garden further south where the summer heat is even more brutal.

My rufa is already in the ground in a morning sun only location and I am very hopeful that it will do well. I got 2 pretty nice plants of rufa very cheap and also am getting a cheap robusta from a forum member (thanks!). I plan on just seeing how those do for a year or 2 before trying to get the Thamnocalamus, unless an inexpensive one becomes available before then. Nursery prices and shipping combines are a little too steep for me unless I know the plants are fairly bulletproof.

Will definately keep everyone informed on their progress. I already know the anceps I've had for a year seems to be doing great. My assumption is that the heat tolerance of the Fargesias (at least juvenile ones, anyway) will be made known by July or August.

Am I correct in assuming that whatever heat tolerance they exhibit this year will only increase as the plants mature?

Yes, I tried the robusta and it started as a 7 gallon plant. Used a bit of shade to help out..even though it was really an experiment..and expensive experiment.

A local nursery that specializes in bamboo had a couple robusta for sale and he gave me a discount to try it out. Out summer nights must be way hotter than S. Carolina. High 70's at night is the norm for quite a few months.

Some online sites state that Fargesia denudata will do 100 degree days, but others say not for the SE, so if anybody has tried this in the deep south let me know.

It's good to hear about your success with with Fargesia, makes me hope that one day something that was grown from seed in the south might be more adapted.

And you are right, the closer to adulthood, the stronger the plant- Of course my experiments are for the opposite- winter low temps and Bambusa varieties. I have a Bambusa Chungii that is always labeled for a low temp of 21, but my adult has come through with only leaf burn at lower than that..

Don't discount the significant differences in humidity between TX and SC, that is likely to play a part in how they perform.

needmore wrote:Don't discount the significant differences in humidity between TX and SC, that is likely to play a part in how they perform.

Thanks, Brad, I hadn't even considered how my extreme humidity here could be an asset in regards to this. Compared to a yard in Austin, my yard is probably like it's getting misted all day every day with its 80%+ humidity most of the summer--it's like a giant spray bottle from the sky

Is humidity a positive or negative aspect for Fargesia species in hot climates?

Alan_L wrote:Is humidity a positive or negative aspect for Fargesia species in hot climates?

Admittedly, most nursery websites tend to imply that it is a bad thing. However, these same sites usually admit that extensive trials have not been carried out in our area. And let's face it, rufa seems to by most accounts be a totally different case than most Fargesias, and robusta as well even if possibly to a somewhat lesser extent. Anyway, many of these same sites imply that their expensive root barrier is the only way to keep runners in check, and some of them haven't even figured out yet that bamboo isn't a tree What gives me the most comfort, though, is to know that Yushanias are listed the same way, not for hot climates, and yet my tiny plants of anceps grown from miniscule rhizome cuttings grew beautifully their first year in MANY days of 90+f days with high humidity and also made it through their first winter with almost no leaf burn. I believe that rufa may be another such exception to the rule. I believe there is some hope, anyway...

Of course if I could just have enough cattle on my property to raise my climate by 1 or 2 zones (methane emmisions) I would be raising tropical clumpers and we wouldn't be having this discussion